Travel journal Shetland Islands

Travel Journal Shetland Islands

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The Shetland Islands

Shetland, on the British Isles' most northerly edge, holds great attractions for those who long for peace and tranquility.

Shetland is an archipelago of about 100 islands, of which fewer than one-fifth are inhabited. Around 22.000 people live there. Its a land of soaring cliffs, spectacular seascapes, rolling moors and hills. Shetland is home to a rich and varied wildlife, a.o. puffins, guillemots, gannets.

Life here is unhurried.

Underneath we will give you an impression of what Shetland has to offer, of course with the help of our pictures.

Eshaness

Eshaness is situated in North Mainland and has a wild, sea-worn cliff scenery. It can be reached very easily by car and therefore it is also a good place to go to when the weather is not that great.

The parkinglot of Eshaness is only a few metres away from the cliffs. Here you will see hundreds of birds nestling on the rocks or just flying around. The best way to view the scenery is to just stroll along the cliffs. Hear the screaming of the fulmars and see the puffins landing on the most awkward spots.

Do not forget to look down the cliffs once in a while, there you most probably can see common and grey seal taking a rest or sunbathing on the rocks.

We strongly recommend to do the Circular Walk from Eshaness Lighthouse. It is about 2 - 3 hours (4 miles) with lots of interesting stuff along the way.
The walk is partly along the cliffs and then goes inland. You will pass Calder's Geo, which is deep and dark. Down below you can see cave which is actually a subterranean passage that links with the see on the north side. Also you will encounter the Loch of Houlland on which stands a tall ruinous broch (not much left of it though). Along the path you will pass the Hole of Scrada, a huge deep blowhole. It is connected to the sea by a tunnel.
The track goes inland also and takes you through heather moorland - territory of curlew, oyster-catcher, wheatear and the golden plover.

Eshaness, a place to visit every day. Click here for more pictures of Eshaness Lighthouse and its surroundings

Eshaness Scenery

A seal on the look-out

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Hermaness

Hermaness is situated on the island of Unst, the most Northerly Island of the Shetlands.

Hermaness consists of 980 hectares of moorland and of dramatic coastal scenery with cliffs up to 558 feet. (170 meters). On Hermaness more than 100.000 breeding birds can be found; a.o. gannets, puffins (50.000!), guillemots.
Upon entering this National Reserve you will have to pass the territory of the great skua. Huge birds with vicious eyes look at you. Be careful because when you come to close they can attack you.

But as soon as you have passed their territory you will be rewarded with a magnificent view over the ocean while down below thousands of birds can be seen nestling on the cliffs. More than 50.000 puffins breed in Hermaness. They nest in burrows and also amongst boulder scree. They catch small fish, held firmly in their colourful beaks. And surprisingly they are not afraid of humans. They are rather curious birds, always looking what your are doing as can be seen on underneath picture.

Want to know more about Puffins? Check out our Breeding birds page!

Puffin at Hermaness

"What are you doing, Sir?"

Deep down along the cliffs a huge colony of Gannets can be spotted. The best way of course to get nearby is by boat.
There is an excursion which will take you along and under the cliffs to see the colony from an very spectacular angle. The boat will also go to the offshore stacks and skerries where even more Gannets are nestling. You will eventually round the most Northern part of Britain, named Out Stack.
It was the most esthonising trip we ever did, so when the weather permits it, just do it!!

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Sumburgh Head

Sumburgh Head is situated on the South Mainlaind. It is the most Southernly point of the main island of the Shetlands.

The Sumburgh Head Lighthouse was Shetlands first Lighthouse, built in 1821. It is now automated, but the view from it, is spectacular, as is the sight of the hundreds of seabirds that colonise the cliffs. Many species breed here, including the famous bright beaked puffin.
Other breeding seabirds on Sumburgh Head are Shag and Fulmar, Kittiwake, Common and Black Guillemots, Razorbill.
Regularly seen also from Sumburgh Head are divers, Storm Petrel, Long-tailed Duck and Little Auk.

The strong tides that pass around Sumburgh Head frequently attract large shoals of fish in summer and this in turn attracts several species of dolphin and whale (a.o. the killer whale).

Guillemots

Puffin

Also of interest is the archeological site Jarlshof. Jarlshof represents six to eight distinct periods of human habitation covering 3,000 years from Neolithic to Viking times. The popularity of the site through the centuries is attributed to a good anchorage in the adjacent bay, fresh water nearby and green, pastoral land surrounding the site.

The remains are fairly sparse but excellent displays around the site as well as the informative guidebook and a small adjacent museum help to illuminate the various multi-layered periods and their dwelling places.

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Fetlar

Fetlar is approximately 5 miles (8 km) by 2,5 miles (4 km). Population is just under 100 people but it is very rich in bird and plant life.

The most rare Red-Necked Phalarope (in Dutch: Grauwe Franjepoot) breeds here. Population usually in the region of 20 pairs!. A viewing hide has been erected in the nearby marshes where you can watch for the red-necked phalarope and of course other interesting birds.

Fetlar is also rich of over 300 plant species. Click here for more specific info about Fetlar (incl. picture of Red-Necked Phalarope),

Orchids in Shetland

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St. Ninian's Isle

St. Ninian's Isle is now linked to the mainland by a magnificent shell-sand tombolo. It is a quarter of a mile long and has been built up by wave action from opposing directions. At each end of the tombolo are sand dunes.

There is a circular walk on St. Ninian's Isle (takes about 2 - 2,5 hours) with superb views from the isle to the mainland an to the ocean.
Walk across the glorius tombola and when the sun shines, see the beautiful turqouise color of the water on both sides (see picture). The circular walk goes all around the isle. Watch out for seals playing in the water. The water is that clear that they can be followed underneath the watersurface.
And also here you can spot puffins and on a stack Great Black Backed Gull are nestling.

The Tombolo at St. Ninian's Isle
(press the photo for a much better view)

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Fethaland (Fedeland)

Fethaland is situated at the most northerly point on Shetland's North Mainland. Fethaland is a beautiful hilly place with great seascapes. On the shores of the bay you will see the remainings of lodges used by haaf fisherman who lived there between early June and the middle of August. Now these lodges have turned into ruins but they give this place a picturesque appearance. Only the noise of oyster-catchers and fulmars break the silence.
Walk up to the light house and then suddenly you are standing on a cliff with magnificent view over the Point of Fethaland.

This walk is not very easy (although the book says otherwise). It will take about 3 - 4 hours and may be even longer.

The view from the fisherman lodges

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