Suilven from Stac Pollaidh
The north-west region of Scotland is the roughest and most devastated of the UK. Very old gneiss (originated in Newfoundland, but it's name here is "Scourie-gneiss") is found here, alternated by withered heather and cut through by small rivers and lochs, partly left behind by the erosion of the last ice-age, some 10.000 years ago. The region is inhabitated by a mere 25.000 people. In summer this number doubles because of tourism, which is, apart from crofting and fishing, an important source of income.
Suilven from Stac PollaidhIn this chapter you'll find Durness and Kinlochbervie, from Kinlochbervie to Kylesku, the Assynt(-motortrail), Inchnadamph, and Inverpolly Reserve and the Summer Isles.
Durness (regional map) is the most northwesterly village in Scotland. The "Smoo Caves" are here, two of them accessible from Durness, the third can be visited by boat trip at low tide.
Nearby an artist-colony is situated at Balnakeil Bay; bookings for a visit to Cape Wrath are available in the local hotel. From Keoldale the boat crosses the Kyle of Durness and the rest of the tour to Cape Wrath is by buss. The remaining far northwest area is forbidden territory, because of the nearby lying military base.
Bagpipes during the 1998 Highlandgames. Held on a small scale, the Durness Highlandgames still are unspoilt.
The single track road weaves its way up to Rhiconich, where the road to Kinlochbervie branches to the right. Kinlochbervie, surrounded by some tiny villages, has worked itself up to a reasonably good status.
The food in "the Old School", where remarks can be put down in a note-book, is not bad at all. The proprietors are not the youngest anymore, so coffee is served in a foot-bath.
The village lives from fishing and tourism. Supported by European subsidies a fish-market has arisen, and a lot of effort has been put into the infrastructure. The road for instance is double track, there is a school and a small hospital.
You may take the walk from Oldshore Mor to Sandwood Bay.
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The river Laxford streams into Loch Laxford. The name already states that a lot of salmon can be caught here. In general fishing-permits are neccessary in all of the UK, salmon fishing is very expensive (depending on which river this may cost up to 6000 pounds per week!). Allthough not cheap, permits for trout-fishing are not overcharged.
A small branch from the main road leads to Tarbet, from where daytrips to Handa Island are available. This island is well-known because of the many different birds that nestle in its high cliffs.
A bit further: ScourieSince almost 20 years a bridge crosses Loch Glencoul near Kylesku. In the pub annex restaurant at the jetty, pictures of the old ferries are hanging on the wall. The food is good, especially the shrimps which are served on a pike. From the jetty trips leave to the highest waterfall of the UK: Eas Coul Aulin. There also is a walk to the waterfall.
On the opposite side of Loch Glencoul the so-called Glencoul-fault is clearly visible, younger earthlayers are placed on top of older ones.
The Assynt motortrail is a beautiful trip. A lot of geological features can be seen along the road, that have been written down in a cheap brochure, the "Assynt Motor Trail", available at the Tourist Information. The trail is preferably driven clockwise, start at Loch Assynt towards Lochinver.
On the shore of Loch Assynt you can see the ruin of Ardvreck Castle; near to this ruin lies the little monument in remembrance of Peache en Horne, who unravelled the geological history of the Assynt and thus cooperated in developing the theory of continental drift. On the picture you can see trees growing on the little islands in Loch Assynt, the sheep haven't had any chance tot eat them like on the land.
Lochinver (regional map) is the "capital" of the region, with shops, petrol stations, a supermarket, the awarded Tourist Information Centre with exhibition and Higland Stoneware (pottery). Drive towards Stoer from here, after a few miles you'll reach the viewpoint from which (if the weather is good) the five most famous mountains of Assynt are visible in a row.
In Stoer you might leave the motortrail to go to the Point of Stoer from where you can walk from the lighthouse to the Stac of Stoer, a 70 meter high cliff.
The single tracks are narrow en steep, and pass the little croftersvillages Clachtoll, Stoer, Drumbeg (here on picture) and Nedd. Crofters normally rent from Landlords (this seems a bit middle-aged, but in parts of the Highlands it still is hard labour for little money in return), but here they joined forces and since 1992 the area is common property.
It is recommended to take the small road from Lochinver, via Inverkirkaig, to Inverpolly (it joines the normal road a bit west of Stac Pollaidh). The road gets that narrow and curvy every now and then, that driving with buses and caravans here is strongly discouraged, and quite rightly so. In the same time it provides beautiful views. In Inverkirkaig a walk to the Kirkaig Falls starts at the bookshop/tearoom.
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The hotel in Inchnadamph (the village consists of a few farms and one hotel) gives a lot of information about the region. Nearby the Bone Caves are situated, the most accessible caves are those, of which the path starts at a fish farm. Take notice: coming from the north it lies hidden, immediately after a corner (a few kilometers south of Inchnadamph). The place is mentioned in the brochure "Assynt Motor Trail".
The walk of about three kilometer takes you through hills made of limestone, the last part is uphill. In the Bone Caves bones, utensils etcetera from prehistorical occupiers have been found, but everything has been conveyed to a museum in London. According to a B&B-Landlady in Ullapool this is one of the causes of the decline of Scotland. She mentioned further the anglicization of the children, the Scottish owner of Ardvreck Castle was (in 1800-something) taunted away because the deeds of his English wife, pensionados from England who live in Ullapool en surroundings embitter the club-life, and the worst of all: only the elder notables in Ullapool do work in kilt!
The small river that runs next the footpath, ends halfway the walk. The water accumulates in the inner of the mountain before it emerges in the open-air. The picture shows the "source".
After passing the Ledmore junction (Ullapool/Lairg) in the direction of Ullapool, Knockan Cliff is reached. The Visitor Centre here explains the origin and structure of the rocks. The walk/climb on Knockan Cliff starts here, but it is strongly recommended to do so only when the weather is good because it is a rather steep and slippery climb. During the climb the different rock-types show themselves: caused by the collision of two tectonic plates the older layer has folded itself over the younger layer. On top of Knockan Cliff you'll have a magnificent view over the Assynt.
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Having passed Knockan Cliff the first branch to the right leads to the Inverpolly Reserve.
Right next to this road is Stac Pollaidh (or Stac Polly), a fairly good ascentable mountain (612 meter, of which 400 have to be climbed). Rather soppy.
The way to the Summer Isles along the coast (the longest route) passes a smoke house. Especially salmon is smoked here, with or without whisky-dope. On the walls on the outside some information is given, but the only room you are allowed to enter is the shop.
the Summer Isles
In Achiltibuie lies the Hydroponicum, a sort of glasshouse-complex where vegetables and fruit are being cultivated. The owner of the local restaurant had enough of accepting the unreliable shipments and paying the huge amounts of money, so he decided to grow everything himself. Even the bananas!
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