Coax Cable:

Coax Cable does only nee to do two things:
1) To take the received signal from the antenna towards the
receiver.
2) To bring the transmitted signal from
the transmitter towards the antenna is through a coax cable.
These are the only purposes of the cable.
Most commenly used are RG-58, RG-213,
Aircomm, Aircell.
There are bigger types like 3/8 or 7/8 hardline but
this will cost and perhaps it is of no use to use these types
simply because the lenght between your antenna and tranceiver is short
enough to there is hardly any loss!
You might start thinking
about those when you need more then 50 meters.
(At 11 meters I could not see the difference between 3/8 and Aircomm
Plus over 30 meters only in my wallet!)
Very lucky we should be, that there are no big misunderstandings about
cable. It is as simple as:
- Buy a line with the lowest cabel attenuation
- Do not make the cable any longer then nesessary
The first highly depends on the money you would like to spent on cabel.
Overall can be said that: the higher the cost the better the loss.
In extension of the second there are mis-interpertations by some, regarding "the ideal lenght".
As said, you only have
to keep one thing in mind, keep it as short as possible.
WHAT LENGTH ?
As mentioned the best length is the shortest, in this way the loss due to the cable is the lowest.
There can be one advantege by extending the length of the cable:.
A HALF WAVE coax cable or ANY multiple (1,
1½, 2 wavelength) length of this will show you: "exactly the same input
resistance
at both ends of cable". In normal words:
You can measure the exact SWR from the antenna with these lengths of coaxcable.
If your antenna is truly 1:1 it doenst matter, each SWR measurment anywhere on the line and you will find 1:1.
Only
when your SWR isnt 1:1 but higher your measurments wil change
accoording to length, this is when it can come in handy to keep the
line a half wave long (or any multiple).
And there are always SPECIAL CASES:
- There are antennas wich depend on the coax cable for the to
produce "the ground", some mobile antennas and very small bases
verticals could need this. Read the instructions before cutting
them. Any fullsize antenna does not have this problem! And
just
make sure you do not use types mentioned before unless there is no way
to overcome this.
- When you want to combine antennas together(stacking) other features
come in, read the chapter Stacking.
OPTIMAL LENGTH BETWEEN LINEAR / ANTENNA / TRANCEIVER ??
There are stories about the length between an amplifier and the antenna/ transceiver. The above goes for this aswell.
Just keep it as short as possible, there is no benifit to make it anything else
CABEL IMPEDANCE, Other
figures
The cable has other cahateristics: it has an impedance, power handling
capability.
Most commenly used is 50 ohm's cable.
Sometimes it could bu usefull to have 75 ohms (for stacking). Another variaty is: 300 ohms, this is what we call open line.
This was/is still in use for simple wire antenna's often multiband antennas.
We will stick to the 50ohms, thats what we needed Flexible/ able to lay
in corners etc!
The impedance (50 ohms) of the cable is produced by it thickness, the distance
between the two conductors and the material between those conductors.
With the knowledge of this you can now make up your own mind, Is it
wise to bend coax cable in a tight curve?
No you just might changes the distance between the two conductors!
- Do not bend the cable in straight curves (let the
cable take the turn it wants! no sharper, this also counts for storage)
- When welded the cable, make sure there isn't a possibility
for water to enter the cable.(vulcanised tape)
POWER HANDLING CAPABILTIES:
The thickness of the inner cable is responsible for the powerhandling
capabitlies. The thicker the better.
RG58 wich is one of the thinnest cable can handel up to about 300..400 watts .
Any thicker size cable can handle 1 kw easy
( RG 213 about 1800 watts, Aircell 7 about 2,5 KW at 11 meters and Aircom upto 5 KW.)
LOSS: at 27 MHZ with 100 meter lenght
| name |
|
| RG 58 |
6,6 dB |
| RG 213 |
3,4 dB |
| AIRCOM plus |
1,5 dB |
| AIRCELL 7 |
4,6 dB |
You can calculate easy with these numbers for example with only 20
meter cable using RG-58 we come to
6,6 / 5 = 1,32 dB loss (100 meters RG 58 was 6,6 dB loss we
want
the loss at 20 meters: 100/20=5 ..... 6,6/5= 1,32dB)
So when we stay below 50 meters Aircom Plus is good enough we only
reach a loss of 0,75 dB then. (not included the connectors etc.)
CONNECTORS:
PL 259 is most commenly used type. although this type is not 50 ohms, I
know my mind is a bit extra-carefull but I only use N-connectors these
are 50 ohms so any loss wich just might exsist with PL 259 connectors
is reduced. Honestly I have to say I never noticed any difference on 11
meters between those connectors.
Use only the amout of connectors you need and that is 2 !
Onces
tested the S.W.R this will probarbly be the same next
time. How nice it is to see those needles going up, but again this is loss
...extra connectors, S.W.R meter etc.

ANTENNA
TUNERS
Do not use it.
If your antenna is not resonant at the design frequencie and you need
an ATU to make sure the SWR stays below the wanted numbers. You have
done something wrong!
There is only loss in an ATU due to extra connectors, and the inside of
the ATU (coil/capacitator)
Most people use the antenna tuner directly after the tranceiver, it is only logical that the SWR does not become better
It is NOT an ANTENNA tuner but only a CABLE tuner!
Remeber a dummyload had an SWR of 1:1,1 but was a terrible antenna the
same counts for an ATU.
The ATU is the joker in ouwer system.
DONT USE IT!
ONE EXEPTION:
There is only one way that the ATU may be used for what it is ment for.
That is with non- "conventional" types
of cables and antennas. (that 300 ohm line for example).
The case here is that these impedances are way of 50 ohms.
But
neither will be used by 99,9 % of us 11 meter DXers.
PS
Taking a look at most antennas, you'll often vind coils in them. You
could look at it as an actual "fixed antenna-tuner", but this is
ofcourse not what we are speaking about.
RECEIVING
PRE-AMPLIFIERS
The device, wich can improve a received signal.
Works on 12 volts has an input and output connector (commenly PL259)
This for me is an un-know region at the 11 meterband.
In the new setup I
will include one of the below marked pre-amps and will put down the results.
Ofcourse,i also had once such a device availible from the
CB-market, only to find out the noise level was improving with great
numbers perhaps when I used bad cable it could have been an improvement.
The mentioned noise level is the quality figure of the pre-amp. At
higher amateur frequencies these devices do come in handy because they
do make up for all the loss in cable connectors etc. (I can notice a
big difference on 144 mhz and 934 mhz)
Profesional pre-amplifiers like those from MIRAGE or ICE have a noise figure
of < 1dB and a gain variable upto 20 dB.

The amout of power they can handle is not that high, ofcourse with
remote swiches this is a problem you can overcome.
There is only one reason why you should use a pre-amp
To make
up for the loss produced by connectors and cables.
So often it is put where it should not be ....at the transceiver his
location, this could help in the old-days due to bad receivers but
these days the tranceivers all are perfekt and really do not need one.
The right location is at the bottum of the antenna, only then
it might bring stations a bit clearer.
Yes almost forgot: The signal wich your antenna does not pick up, can
not be amplified by a pre-amp..
BACK