The following information gives the reader a brief introduction into the various components that shape the handling characteristics of the vehicle itself. Plus an insight into the cooling and lubricating of the engine. The object of this information is to give overviews of some of the various systems within a vehicle, and no attempt has been made to turn the reader into an 'instant' mechanic. Sometimes the complexities of the modern engine seem a little daunting to the lay person, therefore I have attempted to alleviate this somewhat by breaking down the various systems into their simplest forms. This section is best read in conjunction with the section MECHANICAL TIPS, which gives an overview of both Diesel and Gasoline engines, together with the associated problem solving.

TYRES.

SUSPENSION.

DAMPING.

BRAKING PRINCIPLES.

COOLING SYSTEM.

LUBRICATION SYSTEM.

One of the most important items for the safety and handling of a vehicle are quite often completely overlooked. They only seem to get noticed once there is a problem of some sort. I am talking about the tyres, and as they are your vehicles link with the surface below I feel it is a good place to start.

First of all let's look at the tyre construction in a little detail so as to try and form an understanding of what they are capable of withstanding:

The CROSS PLY tyre.

So called because the cords that form the PLIES run at an angle of about 100 degrees to the cords of the adjoining PLY, and each cord of the PLY forms an angle of approximately 40 degrees to the BEAD.

This type of tyre construction has been around for a long time but it does suffer from SIDE DRIFT when cornering. This gives the driver the impression that he is sliding on the road.

The RADIAL PLY tyre.

In this construction the cords are arranged in such a way that they form a 90 degree angle to the bead (i.e. radially disposed to the wheel hence the name). The radial ply has the great advantage that it offers a large resistance to side deflection and it's effect on vehicle handling is very noticeable. Because of the differing handling characteristics it is highly recommended that CROSS ply and RADIAL tyres should NEVER be mixed (mixing can lead to serious oversteer problems). The RADIAL tyres are always marked with the word RADIAL moulded into the side wall.

The condition of the tyres tells you a lot about the way the vehicle has been treated and the conditions they have been operated under. Before any journey the tyres should be high upon the checklist for a visual inspection.

• Always maintain the correct working tyre pressures measured with a cold tyre and set to the manufacturers recommendations.
• Never mix cross ply and radial tyres on the same vehicle.
• Check the side walls for signs of damage.
• Clean off the valve before inflation so as to stop the ingress of dirt into the valve (use a dust cap to keep the valve clean).
• After inflation it is a good idea to check that the valve has re-seated properly by the use of a little spittle applied to the end.
• Visually check the tyres for imbedded objects (nails, acacia thorns etc.).
• Ensure that the spare wheel is also inspected at the same time.
• Have the wheel balanced when fitting a new tyre or if a vibration is noticed coming through the steering wheel or emanating from the rear of the vehicle. (A wheel that is 'out of balance' will usually cause the vehicle to vibrate at certain a road speed).
• Check on the depth of tread (it should always be more than 1 mm otherwise the tyre cannot remove water from beneath it and 'aqua planing' is the undesirable result (gliding across the surface of the water on the road).

The following shows various types of tyre wear commonly encountered.

The first two drawings show the results of either under inflation or over inflation. Both of these conditions can be avoided by following the tyre manufacturers instructions regarding to tyre pressures.

N.B. Sometimes under inflation is an advantage in soft conditions to increase the footprint area of the tyre.

The drawing to the left shows the result of an excessive camber angle (suspect previous accident damage and / or a bad repair).

The drawing to the left shows the common front wheel fault of 'feathered' edges. You can feel this easily by running your hand across the surface of the tyre 'to and fro'. The cure for this wear is to set the 'tracking' of the steering linkage to the manufacturers specifications.

This drawing shows the result of one of many faults:- Steering slackness, Brake drum or disk wear or distortion, worn dampers or unbalanced wheels.

TREAD WEAR PATTERNS

The type of irregular tread wear pattern of a tyre is often a good indication to a specific mechanical fault in the steering, braking or the suspension system.

The life of the tread on the tyre depends on the service it receives and on the manner in which the vehicle is driven. The life is shortened if the tyre is subjected to rapid acceleration and braking, high speed cornering and excessive scrubbing by abuse of the power steering (when parking for instance).

Use the correct tread pattern for the conditions to be encountered. There are various types available:

• Mud tyres / sand tyres
• Winter tyres (good for snow)
• Cross country.
• Regular road use
• High speed 'V' rated

So make a little time to check out the tyres on a regular basis, it could help to prevent a lot of future problems. And do not forget the spare wheel. If you are in remote areas carry at least two spare wheels plus a puncture repair outfit, jack and pump.

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SUSPENSION

Working our way up from the tyres we encounter the suspension items next.

Although pneumatic tyres reduce to some degree the shock loading of rough conditions, this is obviously not enough. So the utilisation of springs are required.

Various forms of springing can be used, these are:

1. Steel (laminated, helical or torsion bar)
2. Rubber.
3. Pneumatic.

The drawing below shows a typical rear wheel suspension construction using a laminated (or leaf) spring. These springs are low cost and simple to connect. The main leaf (rolled at each end to form an eye) has a number of leaves clamped to it. To ensure a constant stress throughout the spring the leaves are graduated in length. Rebound clips transmit the load to some of the lower leaves during the return motion of the spring and eliminate the need for fitting a large number of leaves above the main plate. The rubber bushes (fitted in each eye) allow for movement of the spring, and act as noise insulators. The changing of the springs length is accommodated by the swinging shackle.

The 'stiffness' of the spring (rating) is determined by:-

• The length of the spring (the shorter the higher the rating)
• The width of the leaf (the wider the higher the rating)
• The thickness of the leaf (the thicker the higher the rating)
• The number of leaves (the greater the number the higher the rating)

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DAMPING

When a wheel strikes a bump, energy is given to the spring, which is deflected. When the bump is passed, rebound or release of the stored energy will take place setting up an oscillating motion. This unwanted oscillation is removed by the installation of a DAMPER (shock absorber). A typical SINGLE TUBE DAMPER is pictured to the left. Hydraulic dampers are the main type in use. They dissipate the energy by pumping oil through small orifices. Resistance of the hydraulic damper increases as the speed of spring deflection increases. The resistance to spring movement can apply to the rebound stroke only (SINGLE ACTING), or to both the bump and rebound strokes (DOUBLE ACTING), or it can offer a differential action by resisting both strokes but exerting a greater action on the rebound.

NB. A quick check for the performance of a damper is to 'bounce' the vehicle (one wheel at a time) and observe the rebound. If one of the dampers is faulty then the 'bounce' will continue for a longer period in that corner of the vehicle.

Regular checks to the suspension and steering system should be carried out, and if the vehicle is subjected to very rough terrain then a thorough check must be performed.

The points to look for are:

Suspension rubbers (wear due to mechanical forces and also if contaminated with OIL the rubbers tend to become soft and swell up).	Replace as necessary
U bolt and Shackle bolts can become loose	Tighten
Look out for broken leaves within the pack	Replace
Loose rebound clips.	Re-shape
Look for leaking oil around the dampers as this is the first sign of worn seals within.
Steering linkages should be checked for damage and/or wear

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BRAKING PRINCIPLES

Purposes of a brake

When a vehicle is accelerated, energy supplied by the engine causes the vehicle speed to increase. Some of this energy is instantly used up in overcoming frictional and tractive resistances, but a large amount remains stored in the vehicle. This energy of motion is called KINETIC ENERGY.

Energy cannot be disposed of, it can only be converted into another form. If a speeding vehicle is in neutral, coasting along, it will eventually come to rest. In this case the stored Kinetic energy is slowly being converted and used to drive the vehicle against the resistances that oppose the vehicles motion. This is where the brakes come into play by converting this kinetic energy at a faster rate. Brakes convert the KINETIC energy into HEAT by rubbing a disk pad against a disk (in a disk brake) or brake shoe against brake drum (in a drum brake).

Stopping distance

The next things to bear in mind are the factors determining the stopping distance of a vehicle:-

• The strength of the force pressing the shoe against a drum governs the resistance to rotation of a road wheel. During this operation the road surface has to drive the wheel around.
• The limit of this driving force is reached when the resistance of the brake equals the maximum frictional force that is produced by the tyre and the road. (ADHESIVE FORCE). When this limit is reached the vehicle begins to skid, so any extra force on the brake shoe will not produce any increase in the rate of stopping. (most noticeable on a wet and slippery surface).
• During a skid the stopping distance is increased because the adhesion between a skidding wheel and the road is less than that given by a wheel that is on the verge of skidding. This is achieved by the use of ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System), which prevent the road wheels locking up (by sensing a locked wheel, releasing it momentarily and re-applying it). (If you are in a vehicle without ABS and you lock up the wheels, it is best to release and re-apply -pump- the brake pedal, as fast as you can to regain control).

The electronic sensing arrangement that is used in ABS for the detection of slip can be further utilised to control and limit the maximum traction force used to propel the vehicle. Traction Control System TCS.

Road adhesion is affected by:-

• The type of road surface
• The condition of the surface (wet, dry, icy, greasy etc.)
• The design of the tyre tread, composition of tread material and depth of tread.

Disk and Drum brakes

On the left is a DRUM brake (with the drum removed). This type of brake works by expanding the brake shoes so the brake lining comes into contact with the brake drum (the drum revolves and is attached to the wheel, whilst the brake shoes remain static and are attached to the chassis). This expansion is carried out by the hydraulic pressure within the brake cylinder moving the pistons and subsequently the brake shoes.

On the left is a DISK brake. This type of brake operates by closing in the pistons (hydraulically) and applying clamping pressure through the disk pads and onto the disk itself. The disk revolves and is attached to the road wheel, whilst the disk pads remain static and are anchored to the chassis (or steering assembly if on the front wheel).

The picture below shows a very simple hydraulic braking system layout. The braking pedal is attached to a piston in the master cylinder. The movement of this piston causes hydraulic fluid to be forced along the pipes and exert pressure on the pistons within the wheel cylinders (slave cylinders) and the disk caliper cylinders.

To reduce the pressure the driver has to apply to the pedal whilst increasing the hydraulic forces overall, a braking SERVO is fitted. The SERVO assist unit is incorporated around the master cylinder (in most cases) and utilises the vacuum (from the engine) to actuate a diaphragm, which in turn moves a piston along the cylinder, thus forcing the hydraulic fluid along the pipes to the pistons.

The vacuum is obtained on a gasoline engine by tapping into the intake manifold. Whereas on a diesel engine an engine driven vacuum pump 'exhauster' is used to provide the required assistance.

N.B. most modern braking systems are dual line. This means that there are 2 separate circuits in operation, so that if a leak occurs in one line then the other line will still function. Each line of a dual system brakes on one front wheel and one rear wheel (in a diagonal pattern) A hand brake is usually a direct cable linkage to both of the rear wheels and a point to remember that in freezing conditions it is better to leave the vehicle in a low gear with the steering wheels turned into the kerbside as the hand brake can sometimes become 'frozen on'.

Problems that can arise.

• If the vehicle veers to the side under braking conditions then there probably is a leaking cylinder (brake shoes are inoperative once coated with oil), or a 'seized up' (stuck) cylinder.
• The braking fluid absorbs water easily so use only clean fluid from a sealed container when 'topping up' the system.
• The fact that the fluid absorbs water leads to rust and oxidisation problems within the cylinders and on the pistons. This in turn causes the rubber seals to abrade and cause leakage's. Or it can cause the pistons to seize up within the cylinder so that no braking takes place on that particular wheel. Leakage's can usually be seen around the back of the brake drums (or actually on the calipers). Stuck cylinders require somebody to depress the brake pedal slowly whilst you observe movement of the pistons. When carrying out this procedure , be careful not to depress the pedal too far and thus 'pop' out the pistons from the cylinder. As for the disk caliper, first of all apply pressure to the pads and so return the piston within the cylinder and then check for movement upon applying pressure to the pedal.
• A brake pedal that travels a long way before 'firm' pressure is felt, means that you need to adjust the brake shoes to take up the excessive clearance (and not the hand brake cables as so many people still do).
• A brake pedal that is 'spongy' denotes the presence of air within the system, or a rubber connecting pipe that has aged and is expanding under pressure. Have somebody apply pressure to the brake pedal whilst you check on the rubber pipes for expanding. If the pipes are good then suspect air in the system (see below -bleeding the system-)
• If a great than usual amount of pressure is required for braking then suspect the Servo assist unit. This can be verified by depressing the brake pedal with the engine off and then starting the engine. The pedal should then be felt to move down slightly if all is in order.
• Monitor the wear of the brake shoes and the brake pads and replace when there is only a couple of millimetres left. Do not wait until there is no lining left as the resulting metal to metal grinding will cost dearly in replacement parts.
• Keep the brake fluid away from paint work as it has a tendency to 'lift' paint.
• Due to the fact that brakes work by converting the forward energy into heat, overheating of the linings can occur and must be taken into account. If the linings get too hot then they become inefficient and 'brake fade' takes place. If descending a long steep hill with a very heavy load then it is more advisable to engage low gear then to rely entirely on the brake linings.

BLEEDING the SYSTEM

• Each braking cylinder is fitted with a 'bleed' valve (this applies to brake calipers as well).
• To purge a system of air you need to attach a length of pipe to the bleed valve and insert the open end into a clear glass bottle of hydraulic fluid (used is OK). (N.B. start with the wheel nearest to the master cylinder and work in an outward direction)

1. The bleed valve is then opened and pressure is 'slowly' applied to the brake pedal. (try not to depress the pedal all the way to the floor as this will force the master cylinder's rubber seals to travel over an un-used part of the cylinder and could result in seal failure).
2. Hold the brake pedal in position and then re-tighten the bleed valve.
3. Release the brake pedal which will in turn draw in fresh brake fluid from the reservoir. (N.B. remember to top up the reservoir frequently to replace the fluid expelled during the bleeding process).
4. Observe the fluid coming out of the pipe. Repeat steps 1 to 3 until no more bubbles are seen coming from the pipe.

• To be sure the line is clear of air, continue pressing on the brake pedal and if there is still no sign of air bubbles then it can be assumed that at least that line should be clear of air.
• Proceed with the next wheel after ensuring, of course, that the bleed valve you were working on is tightened fully.
• Once all wheel cylinders have been bled, a firm pedal should have been restored.

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COOLING SYSTEM

During combustion, and when the engine is operating at full throttle, the maximum temperatures reached by the burning gasses can be as high as 1500-2000ºC. the expansion of the gases during the power stroke lowers their temperature considerably, but during the exhaust stroke the gas temperature may still be not far short of 800ºC. (see the drawing to the left).

If the temperature rise is not under control then problems will arise:-

1. The combustion chambers components will expand and distort due to the high temperatures.
2. The oil film used in lubricating the piston and cylinder walls will be burnt or carbonised, causing excessive wear and even seizure.
3. Power will be reduced by heating the fresh gas entering the chamber, so reducing its density.
4. Some part of the combustion chamber may become hot enough to ignite the fresh gas before the spark occurs (this is called pre-ignition and will result in serious damage to the engine if it persists).

The function of the cooling system is to remove heat from the engine at a fast enough rate to keep their temperature within safe limits and so avoid these troubles.

However, over cooling is also undesirable:-

1. Heat is necessary to assist in vaporising the fuel inside the cylinder during the compression stroke. Un vaporised fuel will be deposited on a cold cylinder wall, and besides being wasted it will dilute the lubricating oils and destroy its lubricating properties.
2. Water vapour produced during combustion will condense on the cold cylinder walls, forming a sludge with the lubricating oil and corroding the engine parts.

There are 2 main systems in use, both of which dissipate heat from the cylinder into the surrounding air.

Direct air cooling and Liquid cooling. In principle the air cooled system is the simplest with the heat either radiated away or with a fan and cowling utilised to speed up the heat transfer. Water cooling, however, requires more components plus maintenance.

Brief comparison between Air cooled and Water cooled systems

Points for air cooling	Points against air cooling
An air cooled engine should be lighter in general.	A fan and cowls are necessary, with the fan absorbing power.
The engines reaches working temperature quickly.	Engine is more liable to overheating under arduous conditions.
The system is free from leakage.	Mechanical engine noise is amplified by the fins.
The system requires little or no maintenance.

Points for water cooling	Points against water cooling
Temperatures throughout the engine are more uniform.	Weight is up due to the water, radiator, pump etc.
The water jacket deadens the noise.	Engine takes longer to heat up.
Engine is better able to operate under arduous conditions.	Constant risk of leakage's
	Freezing can be a problem in cold conditions.

Due to water cooled systems being more component intensive I will only deal with that system here.

1. Cool water from the radiator enters a circulating pump, (which is driven by the crankshaft via the 'fan' belt ).
2. The water then enters the water jacket around the cylinder and goes up through the cylinder head's water jacket.
3. Due to waters high specific heat it absorbs the heat from the engine and moves on to the thermostat housing.
4. As explained earlier, over cooling as well as overheating is a problem. The optimal working temperature for the coolant is around 89ºC. This is maintained by the actions of the thermostat. The thermostat remains closed (stopping the water circulating) until the desired operating temperature is achieved. (This action helps the engine to reach its working temperature speedily.) The thermostat then opens, allowing water to pass on through the rubber pipes to the radiator.
5. As the water passes through the radiator (which is no more than a collection of pipes with fins to conduct the heat) it is cooled significantly.
6. The cooled water then returns to the circulating pump to start the process all over again.

N.B. If the coolant gets too hot then it is vented by the radiator cap. This cap has a pressure release in built.

You should, by now, be able to see from that brief description a number of likely problems that can occur, which is why regular maintenance of the cooling system is required.

Coolant system checks

• All hoses must be inspected for signs of wear (either chaff marks or just old age perishing are the things to look out for).
• Coolant level must be correct.
• The radiator cap's rubber seal must be in good condition so as to maintain the correct working pressure of the system.
• The fan belt should be inspected for signs of wear (usually on its inner face cracks will appear)
• The fan belt's tension must be set correctly (too tight and water pump and / or alternator bearing will wear prematurely, too loose and the belt will slip (causing a loud scream) which will wear the belt away and decrease the efficiency of the water pump).
• Check for water around the circulating pump's shaft. If the inner seal has collapsed then water can enter the bearing causing wear. Also check for excessive movement of the pump shaft (another sign of collapsed pump bearings).
• Monitor the temperature gauge on the dashboard for signs of irregular behavior whilst driving.
• The radiator should be inspected for signs of leaking. Also check the radiator mountings for wear, especially in rough conditions. Radiator cores are not too strong and can even be punctured by acacia thorns.
• Check for water in the oil (oil takes on a grey colour if it is emulsified with water) and for oil in the water. Cross contamination could mean a leaking Cylinder Head gasket.

Overheating of an engine can be caused by many factors:-

1. Lack of coolant - refill to the correct level
2. Leakage of coolant (usually at the engines working temperature as then the system is under pressure) - contain the leaks
3. Air locks in the coolant system, which causes uneven cooling and hot spots. - purging the system of an air lock can be done by blowing water around the system with a hose pipe, Some of the connections in the system may also have to be undone
4. Faulty thermostat (most thermostats are now fail safe so the remain open after having failed, meaning the engine is over-cooled not over heated) -- The thermostat can be checked by placing it in a bowl of boiling water and seeing if it opens. (it should open at around 89ºC if you have a thermometer handy).
5. Blocked radiator (mostly due to calcification as found in a domestic kettle) -- this can be alleviated by the use of proprietary de-scalers that are on the market.
6. Incorrect size of radiator for the climatic conditions (high ambient temperatures require a greater surface area of radiator to cool a given amount of water). Some manufacturers also include a tropical fan that has usually more cooling fins.
7. Loose fan belt so there is inadequate circulation of the coolant by the pump or not enough air being blown across the radiator by the fan.
8. Head gasket leakage (check for cross contamination with the lubricating oil)
9. If an electric radiator cooling fan is fitted, check that this unit is operating. The fan is controlled by a water temperature sensor, usually located on the cylinder head
10. Retarded ignition timing (this causes the engine to work inefficiently and thus overheat)

N.B. Never attempt to open a radiator cap on an engine around or above 100ºC as the coolant will rapidly expand and boil off due to the lowered pressure and you will most likely be covered in scolding water.Always wait until the engine has cooled slightly, then (after placing a rag over the radiator cap) turn the cap slowly to release any remaining pressure.

• In hot climates ensure the engine is supplied with a 'tropical radiator' which has greater heat transfer capabilities than the standard issue.
• In cold climates, ensure that there is an adequate amount of 'anti freeze' in solution with the water.
• Even if anti-freeze is not required due to a hot climate, it is still advisable to add some form of inhibitor (anti-boil etc) to protect the engine block, pump and radiator from corrosion.
• A good trick if you are driving under heavy load and the engine is getting too hot, is to turn on the heater full within the cabin. Although in a hot climate this is uncomfortable, it does help to supplement the vehicles cooling system.

When two surfaces are in contact, there is an opposition to relative movement between them, which is called FRICTION. The force needed to overcome friction depend on:

1. The material of which the surfaces are made.
2. The surface finish (rough, smooth or polished for example).
3. The load pressing the surfaces together.

To overcome friction requires energy, and friction between two surfaces also causes wear. So, if the two surfaces are kept apart then no friction or wear can take place, and the primary function of a lubricant is to separate the moving surfaces. Lubricants may be solid, liquid or gaseous, but liquids are by far the commonest and are almost universally used in motor vehicles.

When moving surfaces are completely separated by a film of liquid lubricant, the only resistance to motion is due to the Viscosity of the lubricant. Viscosity is a property of fluids by which they resist flow. The greater the viscosity the greater the resistance and vice versa. The rating used to classify the viscosity of oils is the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). Numbers are used (i.e. S.A.E. 20) and the higher the number the higher the viscosity (higher the number then thicker the oil).

The viscosity of the lubricant decreases with a rise in temperature. The lubricant should have a suitable viscosity at working temperature, but this means that it will be unnecessarily high (thicker) when cold. This leads to poor circulation of the lubricant and excessive friction (oil drag), possibly even to the extent of making the engine difficult to start.

MULTI GRADE OILS contain sufficient additives to change the characteristic of the oil at the extreme temperature conditions.

A, S.A.E 10W / 30 oil will have a viscosity of 10W down to a temperature of -18ºC (which helps easy engine cranking from cold) and yet will maintain its viscosity at normal running temperatures and behave like a S.A.E. 30 oil.

There are two main types of lubricating system in use with four stroke engines. They are the 'wet sump' and the 'dry sump'.

In the wet sump system, basically, the oil is held in a reservoir below the engine (the sump) and is pumped up from there and goes through the filter to be cleaned. The main load carrying parts of the engine are then force fed with the oil, which then returns to the sump to repeat the cycle all over again.

The dry sump differs in as much as the reservoir of oil is not the sump beneath the engine but a tank situated elsewhere. There is only a small collection point below the engine where a scavenge pump returns the oil to a separate reservoir. The reasons for using a dry sump are because the space beneath an engine might be very limited and it is also used with horizontally mounted under floor engines such as in buses and coaches.

N.B. a couple of different methods are employed in two stroke engines.

1. Special lubricating oil is mixed with the gasoline and is burnt and expelled with combustion.
2. Lubricating oil is in a tank and is force fed around the engine, finally to be burnt and expelled with combustion.

Dealing only with the four stroke systems, it can be seen that the major components can be split up;

1. Oil pump
2. Oil filter
3. Oil pressure sensor

(1) The oil pump is usually either a gear pump or an eccentric rotor pump and is driven by a shaft connected to the camshaft. An oil pressure relief valve is incorporated to vent of excess pressure (controlled by a spring and ball usually) by returning the oil back to the sump.

(2) The oil filter's purpose is to clean the oil of particles that could cause wear in the engine. There are two main types and these are the by-pass and the full flow. The most commonly used is the full flow, and this type of filter employs a by-pass valve that opens when the filter is clogged or when the oil is too cold and thick. The full flow filter itself comes in two main types.

• Element:- This filter is usually is usually a paper disposable element with a number of rubber seals. Great care must be taken when refitting this type of filter, taking note of the position of the seals and spring on re-assembly.
• Cartridge:- This filter is designed to simplify the task of replacement because the whole body of the filter is 'spun off' and discarded. The new filter then requires a smear of oil on the rubber (to aid seating of the filter) and is then screwed in place (hand tight is sufficient, do not over tighten).

(3) The oil pressure sensor, is your indicator over the state of the oil pressure within the engine. This takes the form of a gauge or a red light in the dash board. The light comes on when there is a drop in oil pressure. Always ensure that this light bulb is functioning when you turn on the ignition and that it goes out once the engine is started. Some vehicles turn on this warning light when the oil filter by-pass is opened (to warn you of a blocked filter)

N.B. once a filter has been replaced it is then empty of oil so the engine should be started with care (low throttle) until the oil regains its circulation.

Please feel free to e-mail me by clicking HEREwith any comments or suggestions you may have.

Copyright © 2003, Richard Seremak, Last Updated 24/08/2011 14:57:58